WELCOME TO THE DRY VALLEYS,

ANTARCTICA

Home|Glossary|Links|Journal|Maps

 

THE BIG WAIT

Not too far from Mark in the Coffee House, sitting beneath some old style sleds and snowshoes that decorate the wall, I spy Erin Pettit. Erin is a glaciologist with Portland State University, a friend from off the ice, and serendipitously, one of my current roommates as well. She is waiting too – to get off continent. Erin and her team spent five weeks camped by Taylor Glacier. They were studying calving, which is the breaking off of ice pieces from a glacier’s edge. Unlike glaciers in more temperate climates that slowly dip down to their ends, dry valley glaciers halt abruptly in 30 meter high vertical cliffs. Erin and her team have been making measurements to try and understand why that is. They are measuring ice temperature, “listening” to the glacier crack using seismometers, and “looking” inside the glacier using ice-penetrating radar. The radar reflects differently off of soil/bedrock and ice surfaces allowing the team to map ice thickness without having to drill a bunch of ice cores.

Ice penetrating radar
Using ice-penetrating radar to
“look” inside a glacier



"Home"
“Home”

Inserting Thermometers into a crevasse
Inserting thermometers
into a crevasse

Installing Instruments in a cliff
Erin and mountaineer Matt Szundy install instruments in an ice cliff

Erin asks what Kirk, Ray, and I are up to. We are waiting as well. It has been a week since our arrival in McMurdo and we’re anxious to get out to the Onyx River in the Wright Valley, Ray especially, because his time in Antarctica is quite limited. By most accounts the Onyx at 12 miles, is Antarctica’s longest river. It starts at Lake Brownworth, named after U.S. Geological Survey engineer Frederick Brownworth, Jr., and it ends at Lake Vanda named after a sled dog used in the British North Greenland Expedition. The river itself was named by physicist Colin Bull who reportedly liked the juxtaposition of the letters O, N, Y, and X. A New Zealand team started measuring flows on the Onyx in the late 1960s. The Onyx flow record is the longest in the valleys and is thus quite important. The river currently has two gauges that measure water depth (also known as ‘stage’) and temperature at 15-minute time intervals. A relationship has been developed to convert the stage to discharge in liters per second. Ray would like to telemeter that data. Telemetry involves the transmission of data from one location, often remote like Antarctica, to another location usually where the data user is, like a U.S. Geological Survey office in Wyoming.

Telemetry Equipment
Telemetry equipment at the Onyx River
gauge by Lake Vanda.
[Photo by: Kirk Miller]

Our team won’t know if Ray’s telemetry plan will work though until we go out to the field. So together with others in the Coffee House, we wait. We wait with optimism - “We’ll get out there. It’s just a matter of time.”; with pessimism - “I’m not holding my breath.”; with acceptance - “It’s a harsh continent.”; and perspective – “Things could be worse.” And we wait with backup plans A, B, and C, and the knowledge that we will have to come up with a new plan when things change unexpectedly, which they will.

Of all the people I have met thus far though, Lou has been waiting the longest. She is a driller on the WAIS Divide team with Mark. Lou arrived in early November and is still in town. I’m not quite sure how she hasn’t gone crazy. When I run into her the next morning, I’m not feeling optimistic about either one of our teams’ departures. Fog has enshrouded McMurdo yet again. But Lou isn’t just optimistic this morning, she’s sure – “Today’s the day! Willy Field (the airport) is clear and so is the WAIS Divide!” Her exuberance is catching and I start to allow myself to think that we might actually be leaving too. I head up to the top of a building overlooking the helicopter pad. The fog has started to break, and the propellers of the helicopter fleet are turning. We get word that it’s a go. We grab out bags, dress in our ‘Extreme Cold Weather’ clothing, and head to the helo-pad. After a 40-minute flight across McMurdo Sound, we see the ice-free Dry Valleys. They are intriguingly foreign, yet now in my 3rd season, reassuringly familiar as well. The helo leaves drops us off and leaves.


Waiting for Helicopters

In the Dry Valleys, much of our movement seems to revolve around helicopters.
The pilots transport us and all our gear between lake basins and between valleys.
Not surprisingly, we spend a bit of time waiting for helicopters.

Kirk and Ray waiting for an helicopter
Kirk and Ray wait for a helicopter flight inside the hut at Lake Bonney. The helo flight ended up being canceled because of bad weather in McMurdo.
Photo by: Kirk Miller
Helicopter waiting to take off
Melissa Northcott, Lydia Zeglin, and Ray Woodruff wait for the helicopter to take off.
Photo by: Kirk Miller

Holding down the off-loaded gear
Ray and Karen hold down the just off-loaded gear while waiting for the helicopter to take off. Photo by: Kirk Miller

Helo operations team waiting
During bad weather, Liz, Nick, Melissa, Candy, and Gifford of helo operations wait too.

Waiting no Longer
Waiting no longer.
Photo by: Liz Bagshaw, University of Bristol, England

After the rush of the offload, Kirk takes a few minutes to look around and soak it all in. We are waiting no longer. We set up camp by a small hut that the New Zealand Antarctic Program has graciously let us use and head straight to the Onyx, happy to finally be “there.” Eventually we return to camp for dinner, get the Whisper Lite stove going, and settle in for our dehydrated meals. I wonder if Mark and Lou have finally made it out to the WAIS Divide and if Erin has gotten off continent today like she was supposed to. I wonder how our field season will go. I don’t know. I guess I’ll just have to wait to find out.

- Karen

Helicopter Pad
Helicopter pad at
McMurdo Station

Wright Valley View

Reference
Burroughs WJ, Crowder B, Robertson T, Vallier-Talbot E, Whitaker R. The Nature Company Guides – Weather. Sydney, Australia: Time Life Books, 2000.

Gauging the Onyx
Gauging the Onyx

Wright Valley Camp
Wright Valley Camp